a mould if it makes the best mould? For a chef who sculpts cubes, spirals, geometric and clean-cut shapes into his dishes, browsing the hardware store for plastic tubes just may be his best bet. In the “global” view, form plays second fiddle to function. 

Arguably Robert Pirsig, author of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, would have found the prodigal, twenty-something Japanese chef to be a sympathetic road companion. Both men are “global” practitioners, and odds are that had Pirsig been a chef, he probably would have shared Nishikawa’s belief that function overrides form. If an Ace PVC pipe works better than a Sur La Table metal mould, go for it! The chef Pirsig would also probably have had the same problem Nishikawa has with classic French cooking: regimentation. Of the two almighty classical (continued)